The bomber jacket started to emerge as a new fur silhouette in both New York and London but it was in Paris that we saw the trend fully form and interestingly, the bomber was shown with feminine dress shapes for a new positioning on this sportswear classic. Hakaan mixed fur with leather for an edgy look while at Givenchy, full glorious fur was worked into über cool cropped styling for a modern take on the chubby. Loved this look! At Sacai, a Mongolian lamb epaulette was added to create a caped effect and Peachoo Krejberg opted for decorative trim detail to create a more retro-inspired boho feel, while at Manish Arora, the silhouette was streamlined and given a high stand collar for dramatic appeal.
Print & Pattern Mix
As we have seen throughout the collections, decorative looks have been a key trend but what looked new in Paris, was the mixing and matching of fur with print and pattern for a modern take on bohemian dressing. At Dries Van Noten and Paul & Joe, muted jacquard prints looked lovely worked back to recoloured and patchwork furs, while a patterned fur bolero and Japanese styled obi sat pretty alongside a 40s print at Tsumori Chisato. Lanvin integrated the season's signature butterfly print onto a sexy strapless number in ponyskin for a contrasting graphic look and at John Galliano, a black-on-black dress silhouette saw fur mixed with a subtle floral jacquard. Print paired with print made a bold statement at Manish Arora but the look was softened with a pale grey feathered fox lining that added an undeniably luxurious touch.
Throughout the collections, retro-inspired silhouettes have had a subtle yet constant presence and in Paris, what comes through clearly, is a sense of modernity rather than a literal interpretation of an era. 40s-inspired; Lanvin updates the classic fur chubby with a moto jacket feel and graphic colour blocking, while at Mui Mui and Louis Vuitton, a full fur swing coat is belted for a modern take on New Look and a classic silhouette is reworked into electric blue and charcoal grey adding a subtle striped effect. 60s-inspired; At Andrew Gn, the classic A-line ?? sleeve coat is given a parka feel in black-on-black jacquard with fur hood, while Christian Dior breathes new life into a knee-length fit & flare dress by choosing modern grey lamb and creating a DB front. 70s-inspired; At Rue du Mail, a 70s boho look is given a clean contemporary feel in paired down black velvet layered with an edge-toedge cropped fur for a less-is-more appeal.
Skirts & Dresses
At the Paris collections, skirts and dresses took on a modern luxurious feel with styles ranging from simple and streamlined to the ultra dramatic, now positioning fur separates into every woman's fantasy wardrobe. Allude kept things clean with a simple A-line skirt, putting the emphasis on colour and texture, while at Akris and Celine, length and form added a dramatic touch yet still kept a sense of understated elegance. Colour blocking and fur placement made an impact at Vionnet in contrasting black & white, while at Guy Laroche, bold colour and asymmetrical design had an ultra modern appeal. The showstopper dress silhouette was at Gareth Pugh, where a theatrical floor-length sheepskin creation took contemporary eveningwear to a whole new level. Loved it!
Textured lamb is next winter's key fur handle as we saw it used prominently throughout the collections across almost all silhouettes, but what stuck out in Paris, was the dark edginess with which it was used. We loved Jean Paul Gaultier's astrakhan hoodie lined in a vibrant alphabet print and Cederic Charlier's two-tone jumper for a more junior sportswear take, while at Akris, the jacket/skirt ensemble in black-on-black epitomised the fur 2pc trend that has been emerging throughout the shows. The moto jacket at Guy Laroche and streamlined collarless coat style at John Galliano were absolute winners in electric ultramarine, while Peachoo Krejberg upped the ante with an ultra edgy sleeveless dress silhouette in jet black textured lamb for a directional appeal.
As we know, motorcycle jacket styling has been around for a few seasons but there is something about reworking the silhouette with fur that gives it a whole new lease on life. Paris did it best, with so many desirable interpretations that it would be hard to choose just one. Chloe's moto gilet is a top pick, mixing long and shorthaired fur with fabric trim, this style is a must-have for next winter. Lyubov and Lie Sang Bong both give us fantastic fur/leather offerings that would be a prized possession in any girl's wardrobe, while at Damir Doma, a hybrid reefer/moto jacket style looks clean and contemporary. At Jean Paul Gaultier, a fur lined crocodile moto silhouette takes luxury to the max, while Haider Ackermann adds a soft touch appeal to a skinny leather style with a plush lamb lining.
As we saw in New York, the piecing together of fur and fabric to create a partitioned effect has become a strong trend but in Paris, this idea was taken one step further with the use of multiple fabrications in one garment for a bolder graphic statement. At Sacai, three different fur types were added to a nylon puffa jacket to create a subtle colour blocked effect, while Lie Sang Bong and DROMe opted for black-on-black variations. Lie Sang Bong played with contrasting textures for a chevroned cape look while at Loewe, crisscross piecework created a pattern effect for a full fur coat. Hermés introduced metallics and bright red into the mix for a bold graphic look that mixed matt and shine with the soft touch of fur.
Throughout the collections, we've seen the fur top emerge as a key silhouette and in Paris, a longer-haired incarnation worked its way to the fore adding another dimension to the look. The fur tabard was a modern update on the gilet style of seasons past; Vionnet kept a natural feel to the look while at Dries Van Noten, it was a simple feminine style in charcoal grey and Kavier Gauche chose a winter white fur layered over a lace-like laser cut leather for added interest. Maiyet opted for a short sleeve with belted waist while at Kavie Gauche and Viktor & Rolf, a more voluminous, longer sleeved version reminiscent of chubby styling came into full bloom in graphic black and white.
We saw this trend begin to form in London, when Burberry used leather and metal applications to create decorative interest on ponyskin. In Paris, the theme of applied design fully emerged as a look that saw fur being used both on other fabrications to form print & pattern as well as trims and cutwork being applied to fur. Valentino created a stunning Fleur de Lis pattern on mesh for a dress silhouette while at Collette Dinnigan and Gareth Pugh, fur striping was applied to a lace top and full length coat shape. Lie Sang Bong used laser cutting and leather appliqué on a ¾ tabard while at Maxime Simoens, fur pieces were used to create a scale effect on a skirt for a textural appeal. At Valentin Yudashkin, fur was interwoven with bright silver metallic leather for an edgy update on a classic flight jacket silhouette.
Black & White Looks
Black & white looks have been a strong trend throughout the collections and although the palette is a classic one, in Paris, the styling was anything but. Vionnet used asymmetric colour blocking on a simple shift dress, adding a silvery grey fox side placement for added dramatic appeal, while at Lie Sang Bong and Valentino, the combination was used to create graphic check and spot pattern effects. Andrew Gn played with proportion by adding an oversized collar to a Price of Wales check coat while at Rick Owens, a theatrical black & white kimono style opera coat stole the show. At Viktor & Rolf, sheared furs and Mongolian lamb were used to create a zebra-like pattern effect for an update on the classic chubby.
MOOD + COLOUR
As a counter-balance to the fast pace of modern living, our first trend pays homage to the earth, with inspiration being firmly rooted in nature's harmonious balance and thoughtful omnipresence. Nature has now become a point of reference as we search for a healthy, mindful state of equilibrium within our own lives. In sharp contrast to an oversaturated world of fast-fashion there is an emerging desire for objects that have more meaning, longevity and a sense of nostalgia. It's about wrapping ourselves up in the coziness of the familiar, the comfortable and about embracing the idea of authenticity of origin. Going back to one's roots, celebrating tradition and heritage, all while encouraging organic and/or natural, ecoconscious products and manufacturing. We also draw inspiration for the late 1960s Italian art movement Arte Povera, that saw Artists attacking the values of established institutions of government, industry, and culture, while promoting the notion of a revolutionary art, free of convention, the power of structure, and even the market place. By comparison, New Naturalists is a similar concept in that it is a kind of anti-trend. For styling, think minimalist country looks – where traditional tweeds and textured knits get paired with ponti and mélange jerseys, while the soft touch of fur adds an ultra luxurious element to the everyday comfort celebrated by the trend.
Colour – Emerging from the undergrowth, woody browns and moss green sit alongside pebble tone neutrals and cloud grey, while shadowy blue/black and burnt chocolate add a mysterious dark intensity to the palette.
- Using minimal tools and a simple technique of bending, interweaving, and fastening together sticks, artist Patrick Dougherty creates works of art inseparable with nature and the landscape. As organic matter, the stick sculptures eventually disintegrate and fade back into the earth.
- In The Hidden Life Within, artist Giuseppe Penone carves out a young tree with an older tree to reveal its past, showing us what once grew inside so that it may now "live in the present." Inspired by the quiet slowness of growth in the natural world, the artist asks us to take a moment to stop and think about the concept of time and how there is a common vital force in all living things.
- Natural, wood surfaces inspire texture and evoke feelings of a simpler world that exists in harmony with nature.
- Textural knits are a key component of the trend and create an earthy, organic sense of luxury when worked against the contrasting sleek, glossiness of fur.
- Natural plant textures like moss and lichen inspire mélange yarn effects and fabrications.
- Traditional textured wools like twills and tweeds add to the heritage and craftsmanship of the trend, while fur lends itself to the organic, natural authenticity. Work this fur/fabric combination into easy modern silhouettes for an update on classic casualwear.
FUR + FABRIC
- Here, rich dyed fox adds a luxe touch appeal to an earthy ribbed knit and pebbled wool suiting weights.
- The soft velvet touch of two-tone dyed rabbit adds a cozy tactile feel to natural wool mélange and textured knits.
- Glossy dyed fox and sleek astrakhan add a textural appeal to rich cashmere and marl wool coating weights.
- By contrast, sapphire, palomino and dyed mink work with a heavy ponti jersey for a luxe casual appeal.
- Sleek two-tone mink and dyed kid sit in juxtaposition with a textured tweed and ribbed knit for a modern country feel.
- Plucked weasel and dyed muskrat offer a comfy coziness that embodies the tactile nature of the trend.
|Fig 1.||A textured knit cardigan with asymmetric fur front is layered over a space-dyed turtle neck, draped jersey wrap skirt and leather leggings for a sleek modern update on casual dressing.|
|Fig 2.||The edge-to-edge coat takes on a more tailored feel with the front facing and sleeve worked in to a cashmere coating weight while the body is contrasted with fur. This fur/fabric combination is worn over a heritage cable knit jumper and sporty tweed trouser.|
- Classic outerwear is given a new modern edge in a recoloured fur/fabric combination at ICEBERG.
- A wrap front knit cardigan is given modern appeal with an abstract pattern that updates country classics like Argyll while a reversible leather/fur collar adds a distinctly urban edge at ZERO CORNEJO.
- Fur & leather combine for an asymmetrical mix that updates the classic motorcycle jacket and offers a modern take on casual dressing at HELMUT LANG.
- The menswear inspired sheepskin coat works over a high-neck textured knit for an easy casual appeal at ZERO CORNEJO.
- A play on texture sees dyed lamb worked back to a plush coating weight and sleek mink scarf for an update on the traditional DB coat at BRANDON SUN.
- Earthy ombréd fur is worked in to a simple edge-to-edge coat for contemporary appeal at NARCISO RODRIGUEZ.
MOOD + COLOUR
Our second trend is a refined update to last seasons Ladylike Kitsch that embodies a new quiet glamour permeating the air and offers a much more elegant slant on feminine dressing. Inspired by the famous haute couture houses of the 1940s and 1950s, in particular French atelier Christian Dior with its infamous New Look collection of 1947, that revolutionised the female silhouette with a post-war freshness and celebrated womanhood with full skirts and nipped waistlines. Beautiful fabrics, impeccable finishes and exquisite detailing all take center stage to create a modern re-invention of classic luxury. Retro undertones are key here but a sense of understated minimalism, paired with a sensual delicacy and loveliness is what brings this look in to the present. It's about embracing a modern femininity that sees women returning to the rhythm of their own gender and allowing their intuition to guide them towards that which honours and respects their natural instincts. Silhouette direction puts the emphasis on reworked classics with a new sense of proportion that is thoroughly modern and functional, all while retaining a precious delicacy that whispers of subtle elegance and soft feminine glamour.
Colour – In a palette that radiates sensuous luxury, we see a champagne neutral and buttermilk camel offset by perfumed pinks and parma violets that look crisp an contemporary set against a tobacco brown and smoky gull grey. Peacoat navy finishes the palette off with a classic air of elegance.
- As style bible Vogue celebrates 120 years in publication, we are reminded of the rich history of fashion with its ever changing silhouettes but mostly, of the pivotal movements like Christian Dior's New Look in 1947, that changed the face of fashion forever.
- Power house designers like Gabrielle Coco Chanel and Christian Dior remain today, as two of the most important and iconic influences on women's fashion in the 20th Century. The former liberated and the latter revolutionised the female silhouette with equally pioneering visions of the future that inspired women to embrace their changing roles in the world.
- Classicism meets modernism at the new Acne flagship store in Paris where we see a decidedly Swedish sense of minimalism, contrasting aluminum paneling and bold graphic colour worked alongside plush carpeting and statuesque artwork sitting juxtaposed against the Renaissance architecture of the Marais.
- Digital artist Alexandria McCrosky inspires a new take on geometric form for print and pattern direction.
- The 1990s saw designers like Jil Sander and Prada pioneering a new streamlined, contemporary sense of femininity that was both elegant and understated. This pairing back approach to prettiness inspires the minimalistic appeal of the Modern Vintage trend.
- Unexpected textures and fur/fabric combinations create a sense of contrast and modernity. Think hard against soft, delicate against rigid, luminescent against matte – the magic is in the mix.
- Computer engineered florals, as seen at Christian Dior Autumn/Winter 2012-13, add an edgy modern touch to quintessential femininity.
- Styling sees classic female form re-invented with a new sense of proportion and modernism, while beautifulfabrications and impeccable finishes reminiscent of bygone eras create a refined elegance, understated sophistication and exquisite perfection.
FUR + FABRIC
- Dyed fox is juxtaposed with a matte leather and offset by a recoloured animal print for a modern vintage appeal.
- Sumptuous dyed rabbit sits alongside plush cashmere coating weights for a luxurious soft touch feel.
- A contrast in texture sees luxe palomino mink and dyed Tianjin lamb work with a high gloss patent leather.
- Super soft flat and ribbed jersey weights are given a luxurious appeal when worked with plush rabbit and chinchilla.
- Two-tone dyed mink and ultra luxe sable work alongside a delicate lace for a soft feminine feel.
- Bleached muskrat and dyed nutria sit juxtaposed with an animal print plucked weasel for a subtle update on classic furs.
|Fig 1.||The retro 3/4 sleeve coat is given a clean modern look with an edge-to-edge front, collarless neck and recoloured fur. Here, it is worn over a patent leather and lace dress with detachable collar for a streamlined vintage appeal.|
|Fig 2.||The belted coat is a key shape, here it is given a new cropped proportion, shawl collar and 3/4 sleeve for a modern New Look appeal. The full skirt is updated in a micro length and worn with a simple mock neck knit for a contemporary take on this classic Dior silhouette.|
- Pale sheared fur is worked in to a cropped silhouette with a nipped waist for a modern take on Dior's New Look at GABRIELE COLANGELO.
- A plush cropped jacket with 3/4 sleeve works with an abstract print dress for a contemporary vintage feel at OSCAR DE LA RENTA.
- Vintage glamour is given a modern asymmetrical look in sensual smoky sable at DENNIS BASSO.
- The edge-to-edge coat is given textural appeal in curly lamb and recoloured in to a two-tone shade at ANNA SUI.
- The belted fur coat with full bottom at ALEXANDER MCQUEEN takes its cue from Dior's 1947 silhouette but is given an unexpected modern twist with a futuristic metallic bow at the waist.
- A simple coat silhouette is reworked in a textured perfume pink lamb and belted to put the emphasis on feminine form at NINA RICCI.
MOOD + COLOUR
Our third trend takes us to a galaxy far, far away, where a futuristic one world order brings together cultural and historical influences to create a fashion-hybrid, galactic princess warrior. Think Padamé Amidala of Star Wars Episode I meets the sultry Blade Runner replicant Rachel for a universal culture clash that sees oriental opulence juxtaposed with 1940s seductive glamour. In stark contrast to high-tech visions of the future, we find inspiration in more natural forms of modernism like the Spanish Catalan Modernisme movement at the turn of the century, where architects like Antoni Gaudi transcended the mainstream with an organic style that was inspired by nature. Here, we combine this intrinsic sensibility with a sharp sense of geometry and an eastern decadence for a new take on futurism. Historical costume like the Japanese kimono and the Moorish burnous inspire silhouette direction with wrapping, draping and layering all being key components of the trend. What looks new however, is juxtaposing these customary elements with clean contemporary lines, an earthy futurism and a touch of retro glamour for a new dawn of cosmic multiculturalism and supernatural mystique.
Colour – Galactic influences inspire a range of rich mineral alloy tones with domeykite grey, burnished bronze and sphalerite darks setting the stage for an eruption of smoky neutrals and a smoldering red oxide. An oxygenated ultra violet adds a supernatural element for an epic palette that is both earth and air, dark and light, ancient and futuristic.
- The fictional Star Wars desert planet Tatooine inspires a dark vs light colour palette that sees weighty mineral alloy darks offset by smoky neutrals and air filled pales.
- Japanese installation artist Motoi Yamamoto creates intricate labyrinths of otherworldly salt sculptures that resemble planetary landscapes. In Japan, salt is part of the ritual of death and for Yamamoto, possess a close relation with human life beyond time and space.
- The elaborate costumes for Padamé Amidala of Star Wars Episode I are a point of reference for the trend as they intrinsically merge cultures and history to create a organic synthesis vision of the future.
- Human relicant character Rachel, from the 1982 film Blade Runner, inspires a sultry and seductive glamour that is both retro an futuristic at the same time. An epic contradiction that can be found throughout the Galactic trend as opposites attract for a cosmic mystique that pushes the boundaries of our imagination.
- Our galactic princess warrior inspires a hard meets soft tactility that sees alloy metallics and chainmail effects working back to the raw beauty of fur.
- A sharp, edgy modernity sits in contrast with a more traditional, historical sensibility for a juxtaposition of ancient meets new. Subtle supernatural elements create a sense of cosmic mystique and drama for a futuristic tale of epic proportions.
- New Zealand's Wellington International Airport inspires a new Modernism that merges natural qualities with statement geometrics. The organic irregularity references the area's geological past, recalling the rocky, seabattered Wellington coast. Instead of creating a typical airport appearance of lightness, the Wellington Terminal evokes the anchoring qualities of the land.
- Dutch design company Brand van Egmond's "Crushed Cover" light fixture takes its cue from nature and the elements – "Like a gentle stream of water frozen in hot iron, this work breaths tranquil waters. A pure soul, not affected by its surroundings; a safe haven of sobriety in a world of turbulence". – and inspires an organic form of modernity.
FUR + FABRIC
- Bleached squirrel works with a textured oriental jacquard, iridescent taffeta and crepe suiting weight.
- Metallic and ultra-violet two-tones suitings are worked back to a rustic Tianjin lamb for a contradictory appeal.
- Matte metallic leathers sit with a natural mesh knit and long-haired Mongolian lamb for a sense of earthy futurism.
- Burnished metallic leathers are given an ancient appeal when worked with textured astrakhan and two-tone dyed mink.
- Chainmail and tarnished metallics are given a seductive glam appeal when juxtaposed with lush shadow fox.
- Tactile dyed rabbit works with a smoky stretch satin, creased suiting weight and laser cut pleating for a layered textural appeal.
|Fig 1.||The fur shrug is given a voluminous update with rounded shoulder line and high neck for a futuristic cocooning feel and is worked back to an asymmetrical drape front jersey top and long length sequined skirt for a sci-fi glamour appeal.|
|Fig 2.||The belted kimono-style wrap coat is given a contrasting elbow length Mongolian lamb sleeve for a play on proportion and is worn with an oversized cowl neck knit, metallic leather skirt and matte legging for a layered look of juxtaposing textures.|
- A futuristic, tribal warrior look at FENDI sees sleek astrakhan work with an form fitting, high glamour silhouette for a mix of the old and the new.
- A high collared, Japanese-inspired wrap coat is given a sci-fi sense of modernity at PEACHOO KREJBERG.
- By contrast, a rustic tie-front cropped coat is worked with silky satin for an unexpected glam appeal at BALENCIAGA.
- Plush textured fur is unexpectedly pieced with a contrasting tailoring weight for a futuristic structural appeal at VIKTOR & ROLF.
- An asymmetrical wrap coat in smoky pale fur looks ultra modern when accented with red oxide accessories at GIANFRANCO FERRÉ.
- The belted gilet is updated in two-tone fur, cap sleeve and bondage belt for a dramatic look of sci-fi glamour at HÉRVE LÉGERE.
- The fur wrap is an all-important silhouette for next winter and can be worn in a myriad of different ways but the look is most directional when belted to create a gilet effect – play with the length to create an asymmetrical update.
- The rounded shoulderline with 3/4 sleeve continues to be an important retro-inspired look – here, the silhouette is cropped in to a boxy, bolero-style jacket shape and given a high neck for a more modern appeal.
- The collarless, edge-to-edge coat continues to be an all-important silhouette and looks best with minimal detailing and a retro-inspired 3/4 sleeve. Play with fur/fabric combinations or short vs long haired handles for subtle textural effects.
- The tailored gilet is a new silhouette for next winter and moves on the 3/4 gilet from last season. The shoulderline remains broad with masculine undertones but what makes it look new is the contrasting front facing that sharpens the look.
- The belted fur jacket is an important silhouette and although it can be quite retro in style, here, it is given a modern look with a high collar and wrap front. A slightly belled 3/4 sleeve balances out the shorter proportion for a contemporary feel.
- The boxy menswear-inspired coat is updated with a angular tulip shape and lean sleeve and is given a more feminine feel with a high shawl collar. Keep the front simple with a single button fastening for a modern feel.