在今年的紐約和倫惇時裝周上，夾克款皮草作為一種新的廓形登上秀台。但是只有在巴黎時裝周，該款式才稱得上是璀璨綻放！這一傳統的運動款式如今被打造的更富有女性魅力。Hakaan皮草皮革拼接的夾克顯得摩登犀利；斜裁工藝讓Givenchy兩款毛絨絨的長毛夾克顯得輕盈時尚；Sacai用蒙古羊毛的肩章裝飾讓這款上裝呈現出小斗篷的效果；Peachoo Krejberg用剪毛裝飾的細節打造了返古的BOHO風Manish Arora這款夾克的廓形顯得流暢簡潔，高領營造了戲劇化的效果。
近來各種裝飾圖案已經成為時尚主流，巴黎的一個新跡象是皮草與印花面料結合 呈現出波西米亞風的混搭效果。Dries Van Noten和Paul & Joe柔和的印花裙與染 色皮草搭配和諧；Tsumori Chisato帶圖案的皮草坎肩搭配40年代的印花長裙，亮 點在腰上的那條日式和服腰帶；Lanvin這條馬皮質地的性感抹胸裙用蝴蝶圖案營 造強烈的裝飾效果；John Galliano黑色皮草與精美印花織物拼接的長裙低調內斂； Manish Arora全身的印花圖案顯得大膽熱烈，但是狐狸毛的一圈領口鑲邊使得整 件服裝調性馬上柔和奢華。
此次巴黎時裝周用時尚的語言全新詮釋復古。例如Lanvin這款經典的皮草短外套 更象一件機車夾克，豪放大色塊帶來全新的摩登感；Miu Miu 和 Louis Vuitton 的靈感都來自60年代，Miu Miu的長款皮草用一根腰帶就束出了不同的時尚感； Louis Vuitton短款大衣，用炭灰色和豎紋讓經典的廓形立刻時尚起來；Andrew Gn 傳統的A字七分袖配上毛皮鑲邊的帽子以及黑色織物面料，全然一件派克大衣； Christian Dior及膝貼身長裙靈感來自70年代，選用了灰色羊皮，打造出雙排扣的效果；Rue du Mail70年代boho風造型用里面的黑色天鵝絨裙外搭剪毛皮草短外 套，渾然一體并富有層次感。
巴黎時裝周的皮草裙裝呈現出摩登奢侈的感覺，款型從貼身款到夸張款，不一而 足，使得皮草更能輕松進入每個女性的衣櫥。Allude的A型裙顯得干淨簡潔，重 點是顏色和質地；Akris和Celine裙子的長度和款式比較夸張，但是依然側重低調 的典雅；Vionnet黑白大色塊的強烈對比顯得沖擊力十足；Guy Laroche大膽的色 澤和不對稱的設計摩登簡練；Gareth Pugh羊皮質地的拖地長裙創造了時尚晚裝的 新境界。
斯瓦卡拉羊皮將成為下個冬季的主打皮草面料，因為我們已經看到它几乎出現在 所有服裝款式中。很喜歡Jean Paul Gaultier的連帽衫；Cederic Charlier的雙色套頭衫更洋溢着青年的活力朝氣；Akris的黑色套裙代表了未來皮草兩件套的趨勢;Guy Laroche的機車夾克和John Galliano的修身大衣可以說是電光藍染色皮草的典范！Peachoo Krejberg的黑色羊皮連衣裙，無袖式設計顯得前衛時尚。
機車夾克已經流行了几季，但是皮草演繹又賦予它新的生命。巴黎時裝周無疑成 為了最佳舞台！各款皮草機車夾克簡直令人眼花繚亂。Chloe’s的機車馬甲輕便 簡潔，長短毛完美搭配縴維面料，可以說是下個冬季的必備款；Lyubov 和 Lie Sang Bong皮草和皮革的結合都稱得上無懈可擊，每個女孩無疑都想納入自己的 衣櫥；Damir Doma的雙排扣皮草上衣簡潔時尚；Jean Paul Gaultier皮草鑲邊的鱷 魚皮夾克將奢侈詮釋到了極致；Haider Ackermann的羊毛領口增添了無限柔軟的 溫暖。
正如紐約時裝周上所展示的，皮草和縴維面料拼接已經是當今的主流趨勢。巴黎 時裝周則將這個趨勢進一步演繹：多種面料在同一服裝上的運用創造出大膽的對 比效果。Sacai將三種不同的毛皮面料放在一件尼龍的棉服上，創造出一種色塊 對比的效果；Lie Sang Bong 和 DROMe都善于在深色漸變上做文章，Lie Sang Bong用面料的對比打造出小披肩的效果；Loewe用十字交叉的技法讓這件皮草大 衣帶上了格紋的效果；Hermés將金屬色和亮紅色混搭在一起創造出大膽的對比 效果，然后用柔軟的皮草把啞光和亮光統一起來。
在巴黎時裝周，長毛皮草外套成為一個主流的服裝廓型。無袖或短袖的皮草上衣 是對上一季馬甲款式的最新演繹。Vionnet的這件皮草讓大自然的氣息迎面而來； Dries Van Noten炭灰色的皮草女人味十足；Kavier Gauche這款白色上裝配以激光 工藝的皮革雕刻的精美短袖，俏皮有趣；Maiyet的束腰款馬甲時尚有型；Kavie Gauche和Viktor & Rolf體積感十足的中長袖皮草上裝用黑白兩色來體現前衛摩 登。
倫惇時裝周時Burberry將皮革和金屬搭配在馬皮上營造有趣的裝飾效果。到了巴 黎時裝周這個趨勢就愈演愈烈了。皮草經常和其他面料搭配在一起營造印花或圖 案的效果。Valentino的這款裙裝在網眼面料上打造出鳶尾華的圖案，令人嘆為觀 止；Collette Dinnigan 和 Gareth Pugh均是條紋圖案的皮草，不過一個用在蕾絲 的底襯上，另一個則是長大衣款；Lie Sang Bong的這件無袖圓領上衣運用了激光 雕刻和皮革嵌花工藝；Maxime Simoens用小塊毛皮拼接營造出魚鱗般的面料效 果；Valentin Yudashkin將毛皮與銀色金屬質感的皮革編織在一起，把一款傳統的 機車夾克打造得摩登前衛。
As a counter-balance to the fast pace of modern living, our first trend pays homage to the earth, with inspiration being firmly rooted in nature's harmonious balance and thoughtful omnipresence. Nature has now become a point of reference as we search for a healthy, mindful state of equilibrium within our own lives. In sharp contrast to an oversaturated world of fast-fashion there is an emerging desire for objects that have more meaning, longevity and a sense of nostalgia. It's about wrapping ourselves up in the coziness of the familiar, the comfortable and about embracing the idea of authenticity of origin. Going back to one's roots, celebrating tradition and heritage, all while encouraging organic and/or natural, ecoconscious products and manufacturing. We also draw inspiration for the late 1960s Italian art movement Arte Povera, that saw Artists attacking the values of established institutions of government, industry, and culture, while promoting the notion of a revolutionary art, free of convention, the power of structure, and even the market place. By comparison, New Naturalists is a similar concept in that it is a kind of anti-trend. For styling, think minimalist country looks – where traditional tweeds and textured knits get paired with ponti and mélange jerseys, while the soft touch of fur adds an ultra luxurious element to the everyday comfort celebrated by the trend.
Colour – Emerging from the undergrowth, woody browns and moss green sit alongside pebble tone neutrals and cloud grey, while shadowy blue/black and burnt chocolate add a mysterious dark intensity to the palette.
- Using minimal tools and a simple technique of bending, interweaving, and fastening together sticks, artist Patrick Dougherty creates works of art inseparable with nature and the landscape. As organic matter, the stick sculptures eventually disintegrate and fade back into the earth.
- In The Hidden Life Within, artist Giuseppe Penone carves out a young tree with an older tree to reveal its past, showing us what once grew inside so that it may now "live in the present." Inspired by the quiet slowness of growth in the natural world, the artist asks us to take a moment to stop and think about the concept of time and how there is a common vital force in all living things.
- Natural, wood surfaces inspire texture and evoke feelings of a simpler world that exists in harmony with nature.
- Textural knits are a key component of the trend and create an earthy, organic sense of luxury when worked against the contrasting sleek, glossiness of fur.
- Natural plant textures like moss and lichen inspire mélange yarn effects and fabrications.
- Traditional textured wools like twills and tweeds add to the heritage and craftsmanship of the trend, while fur lends itself to the organic, natural authenticity. Work this fur/fabric combination into easy modern silhouettes for an update on classic casualwear.
- Here, rich dyed fox adds a luxe touch appeal to an earthy ribbed knit and pebbled wool suiting weights.
- The soft velvet touch of two-tone dyed rabbit adds a cozy tactile feel to natural wool mélange and textured knits.
- Glossy dyed fox and sleek astrakhan add a textural appeal to rich cashmere and marl wool coating weights.
- By contrast, sapphire, palomino and dyed mink work with a heavy ponti jersey for a luxe casual appeal.
- Sleek two-tone mink and dyed kid sit in juxtaposition with a textured tweed and ribbed knit for a modern country feel.
- Plucked weasel and dyed muskrat offer a comfy coziness that embodies the tactile nature of the trend.
|Fig 1.||A textured knit cardigan with asymmetric fur front is layered over a space-dyed turtle neck, draped jersey wrap skirt and leather leggings for a sleek modern update on casual dressing.|
|Fig 2.||The edge-to-edge coat takes on a more tailored feel with the front facing and sleeve worked in to a cashmere coating weight while the body is contrasted with fur. This fur/fabric combination is worn over a heritage cable knit jumper and sporty tweed trouser.|
- Classic outerwear is given a new modern edge in a recoloured fur/fabric combination at ICEBERG.
- A wrap front knit cardigan is given modern appeal with an abstract pattern that updates country classics like Argyll while a reversible leather/fur collar adds a distinctly urban edge at ZERO CORNEJO.
- Fur & leather combine for an asymmetrical mix that updates the classic motorcycle jacket and offers a modern take on casual dressing at HELMUT LANG.
- The menswear inspired sheepskin coat works over a high-neck textured knit for an easy casual appeal at ZERO CORNEJO.
- A play on texture sees dyed lamb worked back to a plush coating weight and sleek mink scarf for an update on the traditional DB coat at BRANDON SUN.
- Earthy ombréd fur is worked in to a simple edge-to-edge coat for contemporary appeal at NARCISO RODRIGUEZ.
Our second trend is a refined update to last seasons Ladylike Kitsch that embodies a new quiet glamour permeating the air and offers a much more elegant slant on feminine dressing. Inspired by the famous haute couture houses of the 1940s and 1950s, in particular French atelier Christian Dior with its infamous New Look collection of 1947, that revolutionised the female silhouette with a post-war freshness and celebrated womanhood with full skirts and nipped waistlines. Beautiful fabrics, impeccable finishes and exquisite detailing all take center stage to create a modern re-invention of classic luxury. Retro undertones are key here but a sense of understated minimalism, paired with a sensual delicacy and loveliness is what brings this look in to the present. It's about embracing a modern femininity that sees women returning to the rhythm of their own gender and allowing their intuition to guide them towards that which honours and respects their natural instincts. Silhouette direction puts the emphasis on reworked classics with a new sense of proportion that is thoroughly modern and functional, all while retaining a precious delicacy that whispers of subtle elegance and soft feminine glamour.
Colour – In a palette that radiates sensuous luxury, we see a champagne neutral and buttermilk camel offset by perfumed pinks and parma violets that look crisp an contemporary set against a tobacco brown and smoky gull grey. Peacoat navy finishes the palette off with a classic air of elegance.
- As style bible Vogue celebrates 120 years in publication, we are reminded of the rich history of fashion with its ever changing silhouettes but mostly, of the pivotal movements like Christian Dior's New Look in 1947, that changed the face of fashion forever.
- Power house designers like Gabrielle Coco Chanel and Christian Dior remain today, as two of the most important and iconic influences on women's fashion in the 20th Century. The former liberated and the latter revolutionised the female silhouette with equally pioneering visions of the future that inspired women to embrace their changing roles in the world.
- Classicism meets modernism at the new Acne flagship store in Paris where we see a decidedly Swedish sense of minimalism, contrasting aluminum paneling and bold graphic colour worked alongside plush carpeting and statuesque artwork sitting juxtaposed against the Renaissance architecture of the Marais.
- Digital artist Alexandria McCrosky inspires a new take on geometric form for print and pattern direction.
- The 1990s saw designers like Jil Sander and Prada pioneering a new streamlined, contemporary sense of femininity that was both elegant and understated. This pairing back approach to prettiness inspires the minimalistic appeal of the Modern Vintage trend.
- Unexpected textures and fur/fabric combinations create a sense of contrast and modernity. Think hard against soft, delicate against rigid, luminescent against matte – the magic is in the mix.
- Computer engineered florals, as seen at Christian Dior Autumn/Winter 2012-13, add an edgy modern touch to quintessential femininity.
- Styling sees classic female form re-invented with a new sense of proportion and modernism, while beautifulfabrications and impeccable finishes reminiscent of bygone eras create a refined elegance, understated sophistication and exquisite perfection.
- Dyed fox is juxtaposed with a matte leather and offset by a recoloured animal print for a modern vintage appeal.
- Sumptuous dyed rabbit sits alongside plush cashmere coating weights for a luxurious soft touch feel.
- A contrast in texture sees luxe palomino mink and dyed Tianjin lamb work with a high gloss patent leather.
- Super soft flat and ribbed jersey weights are given a luxurious appeal when worked with plush rabbit and chinchilla.
- Two-tone dyed mink and ultra luxe sable work alongside a delicate lace for a soft feminine feel.
- Bleached muskrat and dyed nutria sit juxtaposed with an animal print plucked weasel for a subtle update on classic furs.
|Fig 1.||The retro 3/4 sleeve coat is given a clean modern look with an edge-to-edge front, collarless neck and recoloured fur. Here, it is worn over a patent leather and lace dress with detachable collar for a streamlined vintage appeal.|
|Fig 2.||The belted coat is a key shape, here it is given a new cropped proportion, shawl collar and 3/4 sleeve for a modern New Look appeal. The full skirt is updated in a micro length and worn with a simple mock neck knit for a contemporary take on this classic Dior silhouette.|
- Pale sheared fur is worked in to a cropped silhouette with a nipped waist for a modern take on Dior's New Look at GABRIELE COLANGELO.
- A plush cropped jacket with 3/4 sleeve works with an abstract print dress for a contemporary vintage feel at OSCAR DE LA RENTA.
- Vintage glamour is given a modern asymmetrical look in sensual smoky sable at DENNIS BASSO.
- The edge-to-edge coat is given textural appeal in curly lamb and recoloured in to a two-tone shade at ANNA SUI.
- The belted fur coat with full bottom at ALEXANDER MCQUEEN takes its cue from Dior's 1947 silhouette but is given an unexpected modern twist with a futuristic metallic bow at the waist.
- A simple coat silhouette is reworked in a textured perfume pink lamb and belted to put the emphasis on feminine form at NINA RICCI.
Our third trend takes us to a galaxy far, far away, where a futuristic one world order brings together cultural and historical influences to create a fashion-hybrid, galactic princess warrior. Think Padamé Amidala of Star Wars Episode I meets the sultry Blade Runner replicant Rachel for a universal culture clash that sees oriental opulence juxtaposed with 1940s seductive glamour. In stark contrast to high-tech visions of the future, we find inspiration in more natural forms of modernism like the Spanish Catalan Modernisme movement at the turn of the century, where architects like Antoni Gaudi transcended the mainstream with an organic style that was inspired by nature. Here, we combine this intrinsic sensibility with a sharp sense of geometry and an eastern decadence for a new take on futurism. Historical costume like the Japanese kimono and the Moorish burnous inspire silhouette direction with wrapping, draping and layering all being key components of the trend. What looks new however, is juxtaposing these customary elements with clean contemporary lines, an earthy futurism and a touch of retro glamour for a new dawn of cosmic multiculturalism and supernatural mystique.
Colour – Galactic influences inspire a range of rich mineral alloy tones with domeykite grey, burnished bronze and sphalerite darks setting the stage for an eruption of smoky neutrals and a smoldering red oxide. An oxygenated ultra violet adds a supernatural element for an epic palette that is both earth and air, dark and light, ancient and futuristic.
- The fictional Star Wars desert planet Tatooine inspires a dark vs light colour palette that sees weighty mineral alloy darks offset by smoky neutrals and air filled pales.
- Japanese installation artist Motoi Yamamoto creates intricate labyrinths of otherworldly salt sculptures that resemble planetary landscapes. In Japan, salt is part of the ritual of death and for Yamamoto, possess a close relation with human life beyond time and space.
- The elaborate costumes for Padamé Amidala of Star Wars Episode I are a point of reference for the trend as they intrinsically merge cultures and history to create a organic synthesis vision of the future.
- Human relicant character Rachel, from the 1982 film Blade Runner, inspires a sultry and seductive glamour that is both retro an futuristic at the same time. An epic contradiction that can be found throughout the Galactic trend as opposites attract for a cosmic mystique that pushes the boundaries of our imagination.
- Our galactic princess warrior inspires a hard meets soft tactility that sees alloy metallics and chainmail effects working back to the raw beauty of fur.
- A sharp, edgy modernity sits in contrast with a more traditional, historical sensibility for a juxtaposition of ancient meets new. Subtle supernatural elements create a sense of cosmic mystique and drama for a futuristic tale of epic proportions.
- New Zealand's Wellington International Airport inspires a new Modernism that merges natural qualities with statement geometrics. The organic irregularity references the area's geological past, recalling the rocky, seabattered Wellington coast. Instead of creating a typical airport appearance of lightness, the Wellington Terminal evokes the anchoring qualities of the land.
- Dutch design company Brand van Egmond's "Crushed Cover" light fixture takes its cue from nature and the elements – "Like a gentle stream of water frozen in hot iron, this work breaths tranquil waters. A pure soul, not affected by its surroundings; a safe haven of sobriety in a world of turbulence". – and inspires an organic form of modernity.
- Bleached squirrel works with a textured oriental jacquard, iridescent taffeta and crepe suiting weight.
- Metallic and ultra-violet two-tones suitings are worked back to a rustic Tianjin lamb for a contradictory appeal.
- Matte metallic leathers sit with a natural mesh knit and long-haired Mongolian lamb for a sense of earthy futurism.
- Burnished metallic leathers are given an ancient appeal when worked with textured astrakhan and two-tone dyed mink.
- Chainmail and tarnished metallics are given a seductive glam appeal when juxtaposed with lush shadow fox.
- Tactile dyed rabbit works with a smoky stretch satin, creased suiting weight and laser cut pleating for a layered textural appeal.
|Fig 1.||The fur shrug is given a voluminous update with rounded shoulder line and high neck for a futuristic cocooning feel and is worked back to an asymmetrical drape front jersey top and long length sequined skirt for a sci-fi glamour appeal.|
|Fig 2.||The belted kimono-style wrap coat is given a contrasting elbow length Mongolian lamb sleeve for a play on proportion and is worn with an oversized cowl neck knit, metallic leather skirt and matte legging for a layered look of juxtaposing textures.|
- A futuristic, tribal warrior look at FENDI sees sleek astrakhan work with an form fitting, high glamour silhouette for a mix of the old and the new.
- A high collared, Japanese-inspired wrap coat is given a sci-fi sense of modernity at PEACHOO KREJBERG.
- By contrast, a rustic tie-front cropped coat is worked with silky satin for an unexpected glam appeal at BALENCIAGA.
- Plush textured fur is unexpectedly pieced with a contrasting tailoring weight for a futuristic structural appeal at VIKTOR & ROLF.
- An asymmetrical wrap coat in smoky pale fur looks ultra modern when accented with red oxide accessories at GIANFRANCO FERRÉ.
- The belted gilet is updated in two-tone fur, cap sleeve and bondage belt for a dramatic look of sci-fi glamour at HÉRVE LÉGERE.
- The fur wrap is an all-important silhouette for next winter and can be worn in a myriad of different ways but the look is most directional when belted to create a gilet effect – play with the length to create an asymmetrical update.
- The rounded shoulderline with 3/4 sleeve continues to be an important retro-inspired look – here, the silhouette is cropped in to a boxy, bolero-style jacket shape and given a high neck for a more modern appeal.
- The collarless, edge-to-edge coat continues to be an all-important silhouette and looks best with minimal detailing and a retro-inspired 3/4 sleeve. Play with fur/fabric combinations or short vs long haired handles for subtle textural effects.
- The tailored gilet is a new silhouette for next winter and moves on the 3/4 gilet from last season. The shoulderline remains broad with masculine undertones but what makes it look new is the contrasting front facing that sharpens the look.
- The belted fur jacket is an important silhouette and although it can be quite retro in style, here, it is given a modern look with a high collar and wrap front. A slightly belled 3/4 sleeve balances out the shorter proportion for a contemporary feel.
- The boxy menswear-inspired coat is updated with a angular tulip shape and lean sleeve and is given a more feminine feel with a high shawl collar. Keep the front simple with a single button fastening for a modern feel.