在今年的纽约和伦敦时装周上，夹克款皮草作为一种新的廓形登上秀台。但是只有在巴黎时装周，该款式才称得上是璀璨绽放！这一传统的运动款式如今被打造的更富有女性魅力。Hakaan皮草皮革拼接的夹克显得摩登犀利；斜裁工艺让Givenchy两款毛绒绒的长毛夹克显得轻盈时尚；Sacai用蒙古羊毛的肩章装饰让这款上装呈现出小斗篷的效果；Peachoo Krejberg用剪毛装饰的细节打造了返古的BOHO风；Manish Arora这款夹克的廓形显得流畅简洁，高领营造了戏剧化的效果。
近来各种装饰图案已经成为时尚主流，巴黎的一个新迹象是皮草与印花面料结合 呈现出波西米亚风的混搭效果。Dries Van Noten和Paul & Joe柔和的印花裙与染 色皮草搭配和谐；Tsumori Chisato带图案的皮草坎肩搭配40年代的印花长裙，亮 点在腰上的那条日式和服腰带；Lanvin这条马皮质地的性感抹胸裙用蝴蝶图案营 造强烈的装饰效果；John Galliano黑色皮草与精美印花织物拼接的长裙低调内敛； Manish Arora全身的印花图案显得大胆热烈，但是狐狸毛的一圈领口镶边使得整 件服装调性马上柔和奢华。
此次巴黎时装周用时尚的语言全新诠释复古。例如Lanvin这款经典的皮草短外套 更象一件机车夹克，豪放大色块带来全新的摩登感；Miu Miu 和 Louis Vuitton 的灵感都来自60年代，Miu Miu的长款皮草用一根腰带就束出了不同的时尚感； Louis Vuitton短款大衣，用炭灰色和竖纹让经典的廓形立刻时尚起来；Andrew Gn 传统的A字七分袖配上毛皮镶边的帽子以及黑色织物面料，全然一件派克大衣； Christian Dior及膝贴身长裙灵感来自70年代，选用了灰色羊皮，打造出双排扣的效果；Rue du Mail70年代boho风造型用里面的黑色天鹅绒裙外搭剪毛皮草短外 套，浑然一体并富有层次感。
巴黎时装周的皮草裙装呈现出摩登奢侈的感觉，款型从贴身款到夸张款，不一而 足，使得皮草更能轻松进入每个女性的衣橱。Allude的A型裙显得干净简洁，重 点是颜色和质地；Akris和Celine裙子的长度和款式比较夸张，但是依然侧重低调 的典雅；Vionnet黑白大色块的强烈对比显得冲击力十足；Guy Laroche大胆的色 泽和不对称的设计摩登简练；Gareth Pugh羊皮质地的拖地长裙创造了时尚晚装的 新境界。
斯瓦卡拉羊皮将成为下个冬季的主打皮草面料，因为我们已经看到它几乎出现在 所有服装款式中。很喜欢Jean Paul Gaultier的连帽衫；Cederic Charlier的双色套头衫更洋溢着青年的活力朝气；Akris的黑色套裙代表了未来皮草两件套的趋势;Guy Laroche的机车夹克和John Galliano的修身大衣可以说是电光蓝染色皮草的典范！Peachoo Krejberg的黑色羊皮连衣裙，无袖式设计显得前卫时尚。
机车夹克已经流行了几季，但是皮草演绎又赋予它新的生命。巴黎时装周无疑成 为了最佳舞台！各款皮草机车夹克简直令人眼花缭乱。Chloe’s的机车马甲轻便 简洁，长短毛完美搭配纤维面料，可以说是下个冬季的必备款；Lyubov 和 Lie Sang Bong皮草和皮革的结合都称得上无懈可击，每个女孩无疑都想纳入自己的 衣橱；Damir Doma的双排扣皮草上衣简洁时尚；Jean Paul Gaultier皮草镶边的鳄 鱼皮夹克将奢侈诠释到了极致；Haider Ackermann的羊毛领口增添了无限柔软的 温暖。
正如纽约时装周上所展示的，皮草和纤维面料拼接已经是当今的主流趋势。巴黎 时装周则将这个趋势进一步演绎：多种面料在同一服装上的运用创造出大胆的对 比效果。Sacai将三种不同的毛皮面料放在一件尼龙的棉服上，创造出一种色块 对比的效果；Lie Sang Bong 和 DROMe都善于在深色渐变上做文章，Lie Sang Bong用面料的对比打造出小披肩的效果；Loewe用十字交叉的技法让这件皮草大 衣带上了格纹的效果；Hermés将金属色和亮红色混搭在一起创造出大胆的对比 效果，然后用柔软的皮草把哑光和亮光统一起来。
在巴黎时装周，长毛皮草外套成为一个主流的服装廓型。无袖或短袖的皮草上衣 是对上一季马甲款式的最新演绎。Vionnet的这件皮草让大自然的气息迎面而来； Dries Van Noten炭灰色的皮草女人味十足；Kavier Gauche这款白色上装配以激光 工艺的皮革雕刻的精美短袖，俏皮有趣；Maiyet的束腰款马甲时尚有型；Kavie Gauche和Viktor & Rolf体积感十足的中长袖皮草上装用黑白两色来体现前卫摩 登。
伦敦时装周时Burberry将皮革和金属搭配在马皮上营造有趣的装饰效果。到了巴 黎时装周这个趋势就愈演愈烈了。皮草经常和其他面料搭配在一起营造印花或图 案的效果。Valentino的这款裙装在网眼面料上打造出鸢尾华的图案，令人叹为观 止；Collette Dinnigan 和 Gareth Pugh均是条纹图案的皮草，不过一个用在蕾丝 的底衬上，另一个则是长大衣款；Lie Sang Bong的这件无袖圆领上衣运用了激光 雕刻和皮革嵌花工艺；Maxime Simoens用小块毛皮拼接营造出鱼鳞般的面料效 果；Valentin Yudashkin将毛皮与银色金属质感的皮革编织在一起，把一款传统的 机车夹克打造得摩登前卫。
As a counter-balance to the fast pace of modern living, our first trend pays homage to the earth, with inspiration being firmly rooted in nature's harmonious balance and thoughtful omnipresence. Nature has now become a point of reference as we search for a healthy, mindful state of equilibrium within our own lives. In sharp contrast to an oversaturated world of fast-fashion there is an emerging desire for objects that have more meaning, longevity and a sense of nostalgia. It's about wrapping ourselves up in the coziness of the familiar, the comfortable and about embracing the idea of authenticity of origin. Going back to one's roots, celebrating tradition and heritage, all while encouraging organic and/or natural, ecoconscious products and manufacturing. We also draw inspiration for the late 1960s Italian art movement Arte Povera, that saw Artists attacking the values of established institutions of government, industry, and culture, while promoting the notion of a revolutionary art, free of convention, the power of structure, and even the market place. By comparison, New Naturalists is a similar concept in that it is a kind of anti-trend. For styling, think minimalist country looks – where traditional tweeds and textured knits get paired with ponti and mélange jerseys, while the soft touch of fur adds an ultra luxurious element to the everyday comfort celebrated by the trend.
Colour – Emerging from the undergrowth, woody browns and moss green sit alongside pebble tone neutrals and cloud grey, while shadowy blue/black and burnt chocolate add a mysterious dark intensity to the palette.
- Using minimal tools and a simple technique of bending, interweaving, and fastening together sticks, artist Patrick Dougherty creates works of art inseparable with nature and the landscape. As organic matter, the stick sculptures eventually disintegrate and fade back into the earth.
- In The Hidden Life Within, artist Giuseppe Penone carves out a young tree with an older tree to reveal its past, showing us what once grew inside so that it may now "live in the present." Inspired by the quiet slowness of growth in the natural world, the artist asks us to take a moment to stop and think about the concept of time and how there is a common vital force in all living things.
- Natural, wood surfaces inspire texture and evoke feelings of a simpler world that exists in harmony with nature.
- Textural knits are a key component of the trend and create an earthy, organic sense of luxury when worked against the contrasting sleek, glossiness of fur.
- Natural plant textures like moss and lichen inspire mélange yarn effects and fabrications.
- Traditional textured wools like twills and tweeds add to the heritage and craftsmanship of the trend, while fur lends itself to the organic, natural authenticity. Work this fur/fabric combination into easy modern silhouettes for an update on classic casualwear.
- Here, rich dyed fox adds a luxe touch appeal to an earthy ribbed knit and pebbled wool suiting weights.
- The soft velvet touch of two-tone dyed rabbit adds a cozy tactile feel to natural wool mélange and textured knits.
- Glossy dyed fox and sleek astrakhan add a textural appeal to rich cashmere and marl wool coating weights.
- By contrast, sapphire, palomino and dyed mink work with a heavy ponti jersey for a luxe casual appeal.
- Sleek two-tone mink and dyed kid sit in juxtaposition with a textured tweed and ribbed knit for a modern country feel.
- Plucked weasel and dyed muskrat offer a comfy coziness that embodies the tactile nature of the trend.
|Fig 1.||A textured knit cardigan with asymmetric fur front is layered over a space-dyed turtle neck, draped jersey wrap skirt and leather leggings for a sleek modern update on casual dressing.|
|Fig 2.||The edge-to-edge coat takes on a more tailored feel with the front facing and sleeve worked in to a cashmere coating weight while the body is contrasted with fur. This fur/fabric combination is worn over a heritage cable knit jumper and sporty tweed trouser.|
- Classic outerwear is given a new modern edge in a recoloured fur/fabric combination at ICEBERG.
- A wrap front knit cardigan is given modern appeal with an abstract pattern that updates country classics like Argyll while a reversible leather/fur collar adds a distinctly urban edge at ZERO CORNEJO.
- Fur & leather combine for an asymmetrical mix that updates the classic motorcycle jacket and offers a modern take on casual dressing at HELMUT LANG.
- The menswear inspired sheepskin coat works over a high-neck textured knit for an easy casual appeal at ZERO CORNEJO.
- A play on texture sees dyed lamb worked back to a plush coating weight and sleek mink scarf for an update on the traditional DB coat at BRANDON SUN.
- Earthy ombréd fur is worked in to a simple edge-to-edge coat for contemporary appeal at NARCISO RODRIGUEZ.
Our second trend is a refined update to last seasons Ladylike Kitsch that embodies a new quiet glamour permeating the air and offers a much more elegant slant on feminine dressing. Inspired by the famous haute couture houses of the 1940s and 1950s, in particular French atelier Christian Dior with its infamous New Look collection of 1947, that revolutionised the female silhouette with a post-war freshness and celebrated womanhood with full skirts and nipped waistlines. Beautiful fabrics, impeccable finishes and exquisite detailing all take center stage to create a modern re-invention of classic luxury. Retro undertones are key here but a sense of understated minimalism, paired with a sensual delicacy and loveliness is what brings this look in to the present. It's about embracing a modern femininity that sees women returning to the rhythm of their own gender and allowing their intuition to guide them towards that which honours and respects their natural instincts. Silhouette direction puts the emphasis on reworked classics with a new sense of proportion that is thoroughly modern and functional, all while retaining a precious delicacy that whispers of subtle elegance and soft feminine glamour.
Colour – In a palette that radiates sensuous luxury, we see a champagne neutral and buttermilk camel offset by perfumed pinks and parma violets that look crisp an contemporary set against a tobacco brown and smoky gull grey. Peacoat navy finishes the palette off with a classic air of elegance.
- As style bible Vogue celebrates 120 years in publication, we are reminded of the rich history of fashion with its ever changing silhouettes but mostly, of the pivotal movements like Christian Dior's New Look in 1947, that changed the face of fashion forever.
- Power house designers like Gabrielle Coco Chanel and Christian Dior remain today, as two of the most important and iconic influences on women's fashion in the 20th Century. The former liberated and the latter revolutionised the female silhouette with equally pioneering visions of the future that inspired women to embrace their changing roles in the world.
- Classicism meets modernism at the new Acne flagship store in Paris where we see a decidedly Swedish sense of minimalism, contrasting aluminum paneling and bold graphic colour worked alongside plush carpeting and statuesque artwork sitting juxtaposed against the Renaissance architecture of the Marais.
- Digital artist Alexandria McCrosky inspires a new take on geometric form for print and pattern direction.
- The 1990s saw designers like Jil Sander and Prada pioneering a new streamlined, contemporary sense of femininity that was both elegant and understated. This pairing back approach to prettiness inspires the minimalistic appeal of the Modern Vintage trend.
- Unexpected textures and fur/fabric combinations create a sense of contrast and modernity. Think hard against soft, delicate against rigid, luminescent against matte – the magic is in the mix.
- Computer engineered florals, as seen at Christian Dior Autumn/Winter 2012-13, add an edgy modern touch to quintessential femininity.
- Styling sees classic female form re-invented with a new sense of proportion and modernism, while beautifulfabrications and impeccable finishes reminiscent of bygone eras create a refined elegance, understated sophistication and exquisite perfection.
- Dyed fox is juxtaposed with a matte leather and offset by a recoloured animal print for a modern vintage appeal.
- Sumptuous dyed rabbit sits alongside plush cashmere coating weights for a luxurious soft touch feel.
- A contrast in texture sees luxe palomino mink and dyed Tianjin lamb work with a high gloss patent leather.
- Super soft flat and ribbed jersey weights are given a luxurious appeal when worked with plush rabbit and chinchilla.
- Two-tone dyed mink and ultra luxe sable work alongside a delicate lace for a soft feminine feel.
- Bleached muskrat and dyed nutria sit juxtaposed with an animal print plucked weasel for a subtle update on classic furs.
|Fig 1.||The retro 3/4 sleeve coat is given a clean modern look with an edge-to-edge front, collarless neck and recoloured fur. Here, it is worn over a patent leather and lace dress with detachable collar for a streamlined vintage appeal.|
|Fig 2.||The belted coat is a key shape, here it is given a new cropped proportion, shawl collar and 3/4 sleeve for a modern New Look appeal. The full skirt is updated in a micro length and worn with a simple mock neck knit for a contemporary take on this classic Dior silhouette.|
- Pale sheared fur is worked in to a cropped silhouette with a nipped waist for a modern take on Dior's New Look at GABRIELE COLANGELO.
- A plush cropped jacket with 3/4 sleeve works with an abstract print dress for a contemporary vintage feel at OSCAR DE LA RENTA.
- Vintage glamour is given a modern asymmetrical look in sensual smoky sable at DENNIS BASSO.
- The edge-to-edge coat is given textural appeal in curly lamb and recoloured in to a two-tone shade at ANNA SUI.
- The belted fur coat with full bottom at ALEXANDER MCQUEEN takes its cue from Dior's 1947 silhouette but is given an unexpected modern twist with a futuristic metallic bow at the waist.
- A simple coat silhouette is reworked in a textured perfume pink lamb and belted to put the emphasis on feminine form at NINA RICCI.
Our third trend takes us to a galaxy far, far away, where a futuristic one world order brings together cultural and historical influences to create a fashion-hybrid, galactic princess warrior. Think Padamé Amidala of Star Wars Episode I meets the sultry Blade Runner replicant Rachel for a universal culture clash that sees oriental opulence juxtaposed with 1940s seductive glamour. In stark contrast to high-tech visions of the future, we find inspiration in more natural forms of modernism like the Spanish Catalan Modernisme movement at the turn of the century, where architects like Antoni Gaudi transcended the mainstream with an organic style that was inspired by nature. Here, we combine this intrinsic sensibility with a sharp sense of geometry and an eastern decadence for a new take on futurism. Historical costume like the Japanese kimono and the Moorish burnous inspire silhouette direction with wrapping, draping and layering all being key components of the trend. What looks new however, is juxtaposing these customary elements with clean contemporary lines, an earthy futurism and a touch of retro glamour for a new dawn of cosmic multiculturalism and supernatural mystique.
Colour – Galactic influences inspire a range of rich mineral alloy tones with domeykite grey, burnished bronze and sphalerite darks setting the stage for an eruption of smoky neutrals and a smoldering red oxide. An oxygenated ultra violet adds a supernatural element for an epic palette that is both earth and air, dark and light, ancient and futuristic.
- The fictional Star Wars desert planet Tatooine inspires a dark vs light colour palette that sees weighty mineral alloy darks offset by smoky neutrals and air filled pales.
- Japanese installation artist Motoi Yamamoto creates intricate labyrinths of otherworldly salt sculptures that resemble planetary landscapes. In Japan, salt is part of the ritual of death and for Yamamoto, possess a close relation with human life beyond time and space.
- The elaborate costumes for Padamé Amidala of Star Wars Episode I are a point of reference for the trend as they intrinsically merge cultures and history to create a organic synthesis vision of the future.
- Human relicant character Rachel, from the 1982 film Blade Runner, inspires a sultry and seductive glamour that is both retro an futuristic at the same time. An epic contradiction that can be found throughout the Galactic trend as opposites attract for a cosmic mystique that pushes the boundaries of our imagination.
- Our galactic princess warrior inspires a hard meets soft tactility that sees alloy metallics and chainmail effects working back to the raw beauty of fur.
- A sharp, edgy modernity sits in contrast with a more traditional, historical sensibility for a juxtaposition of ancient meets new. Subtle supernatural elements create a sense of cosmic mystique and drama for a futuristic tale of epic proportions.
- New Zealand's Wellington International Airport inspires a new Modernism that merges natural qualities with statement geometrics. The organic irregularity references the area's geological past, recalling the rocky, seabattered Wellington coast. Instead of creating a typical airport appearance of lightness, the Wellington Terminal evokes the anchoring qualities of the land.
- Dutch design company Brand van Egmond's "Crushed Cover" light fixture takes its cue from nature and the elements – "Like a gentle stream of water frozen in hot iron, this work breaths tranquil waters. A pure soul, not affected by its surroundings; a safe haven of sobriety in a world of turbulence". – and inspires an organic form of modernity.
- Bleached squirrel works with a textured oriental jacquard, iridescent taffeta and crepe suiting weight.
- Metallic and ultra-violet two-tones suitings are worked back to a rustic Tianjin lamb for a contradictory appeal.
- Matte metallic leathers sit with a natural mesh knit and long-haired Mongolian lamb for a sense of earthy futurism.
- Burnished metallic leathers are given an ancient appeal when worked with textured astrakhan and two-tone dyed mink.
- Chainmail and tarnished metallics are given a seductive glam appeal when juxtaposed with lush shadow fox.
- Tactile dyed rabbit works with a smoky stretch satin, creased suiting weight and laser cut pleating for a layered textural appeal.
|Fig 1.||The fur shrug is given a voluminous update with rounded shoulder line and high neck for a futuristic cocooning feel and is worked back to an asymmetrical drape front jersey top and long length sequined skirt for a sci-fi glamour appeal.|
|Fig 2.||The belted kimono-style wrap coat is given a contrasting elbow length Mongolian lamb sleeve for a play on proportion and is worn with an oversized cowl neck knit, metallic leather skirt and matte legging for a layered look of juxtaposing textures.|
- A futuristic, tribal warrior look at FENDI sees sleek astrakhan work with an form fitting, high glamour silhouette for a mix of the old and the new.
- A high collared, Japanese-inspired wrap coat is given a sci-fi sense of modernity at PEACHOO KREJBERG.
- By contrast, a rustic tie-front cropped coat is worked with silky satin for an unexpected glam appeal at BALENCIAGA.
- Plush textured fur is unexpectedly pieced with a contrasting tailoring weight for a futuristic structural appeal at VIKTOR & ROLF.
- An asymmetrical wrap coat in smoky pale fur looks ultra modern when accented with red oxide accessories at GIANFRANCO FERRÉ.
- The belted gilet is updated in two-tone fur, cap sleeve and bondage belt for a dramatic look of sci-fi glamour at HÉRVE LÉGERE.
- The fur wrap is an all-important silhouette for next winter and can be worn in a myriad of different ways but the look is most directional when belted to create a gilet effect – play with the length to create an asymmetrical update.
- The rounded shoulderline with 3/4 sleeve continues to be an important retro-inspired look – here, the silhouette is cropped in to a boxy, bolero-style jacket shape and given a high neck for a more modern appeal.
- The collarless, edge-to-edge coat continues to be an all-important silhouette and looks best with minimal detailing and a retro-inspired 3/4 sleeve. Play with fur/fabric combinations or short vs long haired handles for subtle textural effects.
- The tailored gilet is a new silhouette for next winter and moves on the 3/4 gilet from last season. The shoulderline remains broad with masculine undertones but what makes it look new is the contrasting front facing that sharpens the look.
- The belted fur jacket is an important silhouette and although it can be quite retro in style, here, it is given a modern look with a high collar and wrap front. A slightly belled 3/4 sleeve balances out the shorter proportion for a contemporary feel.
- The boxy menswear-inspired coat is updated with a angular tulip shape and lean sleeve and is given a more feminine feel with a high shawl collar. Keep the front simple with a single button fastening for a modern feel.